Mountaineering Expedition: Khan-Tengri Peak 6995 m

Prices 2022:

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek (20 days in-country): USD 2400 per person

List of included service (click to see more details

Standard programme Karkara –Karkara (17 days): USD 1310 per person

List of included service (click to see more details)

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek


Day Itinerary: Accommodation
1 International flight. Arrival in Bishkek. Hotel 3*
2 Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karkara base camp (460 km, 7-8 hrs). Overnight in tent camp at the altitude 2200 m. Karkara Camp
3 Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м. Base Camp Tents
4-18. Acclimatization, climbing (15 days). Base Camp Tents/ own tents
19. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara (~25 min). Land transfer to Bishkek (460 км, 7-8 hrs). Overnight in the hotel. Hotel 3*
20. Free day (reserve day) in Bishkek Hotel 3*
21. Transfer to Bishkek (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Transfer to airport. Departure. -

Scheme of standard program Karkara – Karkara


Day Itinerary: Accommodation
1 Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in climber’s own tents at 4100 м. -
2-16 Acclimatization, climbing (15 days). -
17. Helicopter flight from the Base Camp to Karkara (~ 25 min). -

Helicopter schedule 2022

July5, 12, 14, 19, 20, 25, 28, 30

August2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 16, 17, 24, 25

Service included in standard program Bishkek-Bishkek:

Visa support (if required)

Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)

Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp

Registration in local Rescue Service

Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Accommodation:

- - in Bishkekl: Hotel 3* - 2 nights maximum

- - in Karkara Camp: tents (2 people sharing basis, incl. breakfast) – 2 night maximum

- - in Khan-Tengri Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – unlimited

Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – unlimited

Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri Peak (Chapaev Peak)

Summer Shower and Russian Baths in Base Camp

Outdoor toilet

Storage service

Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent

Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Service included in standard program Karkara-Karkara:

Visa support (if required)

Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)

Border permit

Registration in local Rescue Service

Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Helicopter flight Karkara - Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Karkara (baggage limit is 30kg, surcharge is USD 5 per kg per one way flight)

Accommodation in climbers’ own tents on the territory of Base Camp

Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri (Chapaev Peak)

Summer Shower in Base Camp

Outdoor toilet

Storage service

Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent

Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Service available at extra payment:

One way land transfer Bishkek – Karakol$ 150 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max

One way land transfer Karakol – Karkara$ 160 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max

Baggage delivery from Karkara to Khan-Tengri Base Camp $5 per kg

Note: : Baggage is delivered by scheduled flight

Meals: Full Board in Karkara Camp $ 40 per person per day

Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 65 per person per day

Set of high altitude food – USD 120 per set

Cooking set – USD 25

Rent of tents for higher camps – USD 80 per programme

Bar

Internet in the camp – USD 5 per hour

International calls by satellite phone - USD 4 per minute

Accommodation in Bishkek:

Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 60-75, standard single room $50-60 incl. breakfast

Note: : Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, and Guest Houses are available by request

Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)

Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $ 10 per canister (230 gr)

- Mountain Guide: $ 3500 per programme

- Mountain Guide trained according
to programme of UIAGM standards
$ 4200 per programme

NB: We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:2 maximum. For group of 3 clients we advise to have the second Guide. Minimum $ 2000 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (available in Bishkek only - safety deposit $300 is required): $ 10 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)

Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price list

Acclimatization programme on Ak-Sai Glacier

Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake

Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

Conditions and notes:

1.Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 7 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 7 weeks) extra charge for formalities $ 50 per person is charged.

2.Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.

3.Usually organization providing helicopter for work in area of Khan-Tengri Peak confirms price for helicopter service just before the season – in May. In case of significant rise in prices for helicopter flights (10% and more) ITMC reserves the right to change programme price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.

4.Every climber can take on helicopter up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (approx. one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check total weight on your flight. The price for overweight baggage on helicopter is $ 5 per kg.

5.Helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier usually operates from July 15 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.

6.If expedition group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.

7. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of $ 40 000.

Route description:

Classical Route from South Inylchek Glacier via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier

It is recommended to reserve first 2 days for walks on glacier in the area of Base Camp for acclimatization.

Move to Camp 1 at 4200 m. Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4200 m). It takes 2-4 hours. And it is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day. On the glacier there is no serious dangerous except small rivers with swift streams.

It is recommended to go round the rivers or cross it with safety equipment on snow places.

Move to Camp 2. Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), and chance increases during a day time, we advise to make a very early start for the next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovsky Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. To minimise the risk from the icefall it is important to pass this part of ascent route very fast and before sunrise. The best if you pass the place under icefall by 7:30am, and get to the Camp 2 by 12pm. Be aware of crevasses on the way and move only as roped team. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at the altitude of about 5300 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a "first come, first served" basis). Risk from icefall is bigger after mid August.

During period of acclimatisation we recommend to spend two nights at Camp 2, so climbers ascend to 6200 m - 6500 m before descend to the Base Camp for rest.

From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.

After acclimatization in Camp 2, and rest in the Base Camp, for the second ascent it is possible to make the way from Base Camp to Camp 3 at one day.

Camp 3 can be pitched at the altitude of 6400 m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, ridge being prone to violent north winds. It takes from 3 to 6 hours to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 depending on amount of snow.

From Camp 3 ascent route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150 m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes.

Summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. From Camp 3 it takes 4-10 hours. Start from Camp 3 is planned for 4 am. Wind in the area of summit is getting slowly between 12:00 and 14:00. Descent to the base camp can be made during a long day.

Western ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak

List of equipment:

High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, snowshoes, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood (down, goretex), warm & waterproof over-gloves or mitts, cap, balaclava, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), rope, ice axe, 5 season sleeping bag (dawn, for up to -30C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (60-80 l), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, ice axe.


Price

Package of 10 days / 9 nights 2 4 6 8 10 12 Single supplement
Kyrgyzstan package $1 746 $1 416 $1 192 $1 053 $1 041 $992 $98


City / place Nights Hotel 4*
Bishkek town 2,5 (early check-in) Garden Hotel 4* or
Bishkek town 2,5 (early check-in) Garden Hotel 4* or
Jetty Oguz 1 Family Guest House
Karakol 1 Green yard hotel
Bokonbaevo 1 Family Guest House
Son-Kul Lake 2 Yurt Camp
Chaek 1 Family home Stay
Susamyr 1 Family home Stay

Package includes in Kyrgyzstan:

  1. Accommodation in mentioned in program
  2. Transportation during this tour:
    • Group 2-3 pax by 4 WD SUV car
    • Group 4-12 pax by 1 minibus of 18 seats
  3. Meals as mentioned in program: full board
  4. English speaking Guide
  5. Excursions according to tour program
  6. Entrance fees for all mentioned monuments.
  7. All mentioned activities in the program description:
    • Eagle hunting show
    • Felt carpet manufacturing show
    • Folklore show
  8. 1,5 liter of mineral water per person per day
  9. Horses for horseback riding (Son kol lake) – 5 hours
  10. Bikes – 3 days
  11. Single supplement possible only in Bishkek,Karakol,Bokonbaevo
  12. All local taxes
  13. Memorable souvenirs

Not included:

  1. International air flight
  2. Medical Insurance policy
  3. Tips and gratuities.
  4. Any personal expenses.

Notes:

  1. It is recommended to have warm clothes for mountainous area
  2. Meals in remoted place without options to go out are included in the program price as mentioned in description.
  3. Safety refundable deposit 500$ per 1 bike is required
  4. Suggested program can be changed or individualized according to your interests

Booking / Payment

We book agreed tour package and services after clients confirmation. To guarantee booking we apply to make prepayment within 5 days after all services booked and confirmed. Balance can be paid upon arrival.

Cancellations and charges

- There is no cancellation charge for confirmed booking made 15 days prior to arrival, but any actual expenses incurred relating to documents such as visa support, permits, or any other necessary official paperwork, have to be paid.

- There is cancellation charge of 10% of booking amount for cancellations made less 15 days of arrival date

- There is cancellation charge of 50% of booking amount for cancellations made less 3 days before arrival date.

Kyrgyzstan Tours